Exploring Amman: Food, Arts & Architecture
- Ms. Mila Vasconcelos
- Mar 7
- 4 min read
Exploring Amman: Food, Arts & Architecture
When I travel, I usually wander with a camera in one hand and a notebook in the other. In Amman, though, I often had to put both down, either because I was too full from a perfect dish of mansaf or because I simply had to stand still and admire the sunset bouncing off ancient ruins.
I arrived just after Eid in June 2025, and it felt like the whole city was still celebrating. Between the joy of their first FIFA World Cup qualification and the kindness of strangers who insisted I try this or that sweet, my days in Amman were enjoyed in an amazing way.
Starting with Street Strolls and Stone Stories
On my first day, I headed straight to the Roman Amphitheater. It’s impossible to miss: it rises from the downtown valley, and it was so vivid, so full of people gathering, singing, enjoying a good time outside.
But the real surprise was the tiny Folklore Museum tucked behind the theater. It was simple but sincere, with mannequins in regional clothes, old tools, and traditional artifacts that reminded me how diverse Jordan is.
Just across the street, I spotted what looked like a photo hotspot, with tiled stairs and murals, but when I got closer, I found it was much more: The Amman Panorama Art Gallery. Not just local work, but pieces from all over the Middle East. Portraits, calligraphy, mixed media, paintings, jewelry. Everything is so well done and sold at reasonable prices. I highly recommend it for the view, but also a great opportunity to support local and international artists and artisans.
Continuing my trip around downtown, I went up toward the Citadel, where history sits on top of the hill. It’s a good climb, but the breeze at the top carries something ancient. The hill overlooking Amman has been occupied since the Bronze Age, around 1800 BCE. As I walked through the ruins, I could see traces left by different civilizations, including the Roman Empire, Byzantine Empire, and the Umayyad Caliphate. Structures like the Temple of Hercules and the Umayyad Palace reveal how each culture shaped the site over time.
Rainbow Street and Kunafa Dreams
Later that evening, I walked through Rainbow Street, Amman's famous strip of cafés, bookstores, and colorful staircases. It's where tradition meets the trendy. Street art, bohemian restaurants, calligraphy shops, and families out enjoying the weather.
But I wasn’t there just for photos, I had a mission: to find Habiba Sweets, the oldest branch, downtown. What surprised me was the line being so long, but the service was so fast, efficient, and clearly, we could see the cultural aspect in the preparation of this dish. And tasting it really proved that the Habiba kunafa lived up to the hype. Warm, cheesy, topped with syrup and pistachios, every bite melted in my mouth.
Still craving more sweets, I went to a small shop nearby with the best pistachio ice cream I’ve ever had. That mix of heat from the day and cold, creamy dessert is something I won’t forget. Plus, an entire choreography to serve the ice cream made the moment so much more special. One of my favorite songs was playing on the streets, many local boys singing together as I watched from the shop balcony. Happy when those cultural moments align during my trips, they remind me why my search for traditional art forms and cultural practices matters so much. Seeing these traditions alive in front of my eyes: the preparation of food, the rhythm of a street, the songs people share together, confirms that culture is not something frozen in museums, but something lived and celebrated every day. Moments like this make me feel deeply grateful and reinforce my belief that researching, documenting, and sharing these traditions is worthwhile. They are small scenes, perhaps ordinary for those who live there, but for me, they are powerful reminders of why it is so important to keep cultural heritage alive.
Shawarma Classics vs. New-Age Bites
Now let’s talk about shawarma. I tried it from the oldest shop in town, Shawerma El Reem, a tiny corner spot where locals were working hard. The flavor? Deep, rich, full of taste. But just when I thought I’d found the best, I discovered Aldayaa, a modern take on shawarma with sharp presentation, spice blends, and sauces I didn’t expect. Amman doesn’t force you to choose between tradition and modernity; it lets you enjoy both. Still, there was one dish I returned to again and again: Mansaf.
Mansaf: My Jordanian Comfort Dish
This iconic Jordanian meal became my comfort food while in Amman. Lamb so tender it slid off the bone with a plastic spoon, served over rice with jameed sauce and flatbread. It was heavy, flavorful, and slow… the kind of food that stops time.
From there, I spent my remaining hours chasing art in different places, fascinated with the stone's architecture and the peace of the streets. But I must say, after a good Mansaf, the best thing to do is to take a good nap, but the art around me didn't let me do that!
Final Thoughts
Amman is not a city that rushes to impress you. It doesn’t sparkle on postcards or push you toward flashy attractions. Instead, it invites you to walk slowly, eat generously, and look closely. I left with more than memories; I left with flavors, conversations with local artists, and colors stitched into my journal. If you go, go hungry. Go curious. Go without a plan. That’s when the city opens up.
Ms. Mila Vasconcelos
Comments